Saturday, August 30, 2014

Cave Church -- Yemrhanekirstose Monastery

Sunday morning at 6, before departure Lalibela, we drove down the valley to visit a unique cave church 42 km away. Yemrhanekirstose Monastery, situated at an latitude of 2700mm was built by Yemrehranna Kristos, the third Zagwe ruler and a predecessor of King Lalibela around AD 1100.

The night before was heavy rain.  It was still drizzling in the morning.  We were there early.  The church is closed, but some kind of chanting or mass was going on inside.  The pilgrims outside followed the mass through loudspeaker shifting positions between standing up and knee down.  The Ethiopia mass is long, typically 2-3 hours.   Some sections allow people to move about, some do not.  We must arrived at the no move session.   We waited for about one hour to go inside.
 
Pictures of prayers





Finally inside.  The late Axumite Architecture, alternating layers of wood and granite faced with white gypsum.



 
 A priest sitting at the end of cave, alone.
 A woman standing at the far end of the cave. 
 Yemrehanna Kristo is credited with restoring links between Ethiopia and Coptic Church.  Priests claim the wood used in church construction was from Egypt, the gypsum was from Jerusalem.  The church was an important pilgrimage site in medieval times.  The deep end of the cave is open mass grave of some 10K Christian pilgrims, claimed,  who travelled from as far as Egypt, Syria, and Jerusalem. It was eerie.

The red thing at the far end is the tomb of Yemrehanna Kristo who build the church.  The  tomb chamber, claimed, is 10 meters deep.
Intricate painting of patterns inside the church.





The metal door.
 
 Young pilgrims and the belongings of the prayers.

 
Village of Bilbilla
Lake Tana, the source of Blue Nile.
A flooded river near Addis
 

Friday, August 29, 2014

Hudad and ABUNE YOSEF

The highlight of the Lalibela trip was hiking through the villages to the top of the Abune Yosef Mountains. 

In the morning, I got up at 6,  run with Yuval, a five times ironman from Tel Aviv Israel, from Marybela hotel down to the valley and back,  10% steep sloop.  The view of the lush green valley under the morning sun was spectacular. 
Here is the trail, and the valley view and the winding dirt road from hotel balcony.


and jump on the roof top the night before.
 
The lively Saturday market



Many has a little lamb.




 
The trail head

 Peasants were heading to the Lalibela market.

 
Idyllic village




Teff field,

He is a remarkable boy, followed me all the way to the top.  I gave a sandwich to him.  He split it in half and gave to his two younger siblings, he did not keep any for himself.




 
 Locals farm every inch of the land from valley to the top of the mountain.


The summit and escarpment




And the view








 
 
The Gelada baboons, bleeding heart baboons, found only in the Ethiopia highlands.



Villagers came back from the market.
 






Evening at Ben ABEBA restaurant, with stunning view.